According to author Frank Gill in his book, “Ornithology,” “The avian sense of smell has been traditionally underestimated. Most birds do have small smell centers (olfactory bulbs) in their brain; the bulb tends to be small, but is well developed in some birds, especially those that fly and hunt by night.
It was originally thought the birds such as Leach’s Storm-Petrels (Kent Island, New Brunswick) have large nerve cell centers which help them rely on their sense of smell. it’s now generally thought by scientists that most birds use their sense of smell while performing their everyday chores. Certain species actually adapted the sense of smell to facilitate activities such as mating.
The two little nostrils on the top of the birds beak are called “nares” Your bird uses the nares to breath through. These nostrils help guide the air into three nasal cavities which act as an important filtration system cleaning the air before it hits their delicate lungs.
An essay in “The Birder’s Handbook” explains that “while most birds would have little use for smell. … the apparatus for detecting odors is present in the nasal passages of all birds.
We can also deduce that if birds can die from noxious fumes like burnt Teflon, the smells don’t act as a warning to the bird like if you or I were to smell burning rubber we would flee. Your birds don’t react to these noxious fumes so the olfactory glands only provide part of the story to the brain.
Not surprising, if you think about it. Birds live in trees, up high where odors get dispersed so the general consensus for parrots at least is that they can smell but it’s not a sense they rely on for daily activities. We hear customers saying that their bird knows where the food in their home is even though they can’t see it, the bird must’ve smelled it which we know is not surprising but even the strong odor of dreadfully rotting fruit would unlikely be smelled by parrots at foraging altitudes.
Speaking of bird altitudes, birds have to be one the most adaptable creatures on the face of the earth. Did you know the Ruppells Griffon Vulture (about 22 pounds with 7 foot wing spans) had their altitude recorded by airlines pilots as high as 36,000 feet? That’s almost 7 miles above the earth. They’re able to do this because they’ve developed a certain type of hemoglobin which improves how their body assimilates oxygen.
Windy City Parrot, Inc
Simply Everything for Exotic Birds – Since 1993
I have looked at your sizing chart and you have a very comprehensive list–with the exception of my bird–the Cape or brown-necked parrot. I have measured her at the girth which is approx 8″ and the nape to tail at 5″. I’ve tried using a model that I no longer see listed as these were for a CAG I had but they are listed at size 8 and are too large for my cape. So she is smaller bodied than a CAG, but definitely larger than say a Conure or Hahns Macaw I’ve also owned, so can confidently say this.
The body type is stockier like an African Grey, but smaller I think so perhaps a wide or wide plus would fit her. I hope the measurements clear that up — and then you can add the Capes to the list too! I have used these for years and love them–can’t say the birds do, but I find the younger they are, the better. It’s the rescues that are the least likely to accept them.
Based on the measurements provided, the size Wide will probably work the best.
I got some budgie breeding boxes from you a few months ago. I was happy with the service and the quality of the boxes and I did submit a review.
Since then, I have actually put the boxes to use. I have decided tht I don’t like the offset entry style with the side doors for viewing. Reason being is tht the concave is very shallow, but even more of a problem (at least for me) is that the wood material used for the bottom of the box & concave is very, very smooth and the eggs keep rolling all over.
I realize that these boxes are primarily intended for attaching to a cage, whereas I
set mine out inside my aviary. I tend to handle my boxes alot more than most people do and have to be extremely careful with these boxes. Even so, I can hear eggs rolling around just from movement of the hens as they leave and enter the boxes.
The other day, I found a broken egg….about 2 days aways from hatching time, on the
aviary floor. I’ve never had that happen before. It was an experienced hen, contentedly sitting her newly hatched chick. The other 2 eggs were fine….so it did not appear she had gone on a tyrant……but most likely the egg did get broken and she cleared it away.
I moved the eggs to another box to insure it didn’t happen again.
The hen using the other box has abandoned the concave and keeps her eggs way in the corner. I worry that it might be a problem when the chicks hatch. Being on a solid surface can contribute to leg splaying.
I’ll have to keep the box well cushioned with bedding material. I’m going to have to figure out what to do with the floor before using the boxes again.
Anyway….a learning curve. But just wanted to give you some more input on the boxes
Nesting material is recommended in breeding boxes for that purpose. Few boxes have a deep enough concave to hold the eggs all together. It also helps keep the eggs warmer.