Need Cage Cleaning Help? Read this

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What’s the single most asked question at Windy City Parrot? “Why is my bird so messy”? It’s not that “your” bird is messy. Birds are messy by natural design. For us old folks, the talk you had with your folks was called the “birds and the bees” talk for a reason. Bees spread pollen by going from flower-to-flower, thus we have more flowers.

Unfortunately when the great creator put this plan together, I don’t think he (she) envisioned wall-to-wall carpeting or laminate floors under our beautiful birds. But we love them, so we put up with the mess. We know it’s frustrating. Hope springs eternal. There are ways to help reduce the mess and there are simple techniques to reduce bird cage cleaning times.
 
To start, lets go back to the floor. If your bird cage is on the floor, the first thing we recommend is to put an offce chair mat under the cage to protect the floor (we’ve seen them used on walls as well). You’ll thank us for this suggestion down the road. On a budget? Use a piece of sheet linoleum, remnants can be very inexpensive. If you have a smaller bird cage on a table, a place mat or two will help keep the surface clean. 
 
Next, if you have seed eaters, there’s a few things you can do. Bird cage food dishes should be never more than 1/2 full. You’re not doing your bird any favors by keeping their dish full of food. Big birds can get very particular and may throw seed out looking for “perfect pieces” – this can get very costly. If you have the right size dish, your bird will never grow hungry by not filling the dish all the way.
 
There’s a couple ways to approach bird cage dish management. Some bird cages may have separate dishes for bird food, water, bird treats and bathing. We recommend at least one back up set of every dish in the cage. That way it’s much easier to swap out dirty dishes for clean ones. Back up dishes are a big time saver. Especially with seed, you don’t have to empty the bird seed dish, clean it, wait for it to dry so the seed doesn’t clump – you get the idea. New dishes in the bird cage, dirty dishes in the sink – done.
 
A bird cage feeder dish isn’t always the way to go either. For years we kept Sunshine’s seed in a thick ceramic dish on the grate or floor of the cage. If you do this make sure you synchronize your bird cage perches to dish placement to reduce poop gong into the food. Today aSeed Corral can really reduce the amount of seed hulls spread about the floor
 
For bigger birds this may not work (they can flip the dishes) but for most Conures and smaller birds, a small baking dish or even an old crystal or ceramic ashtray may work. Just check to ensure the birds can easily perch on the edge of what ever you place on the bird cage floor.
 
Bird Food Pellets, are far less messy than seed and actually more nutritious (and more economical) than bird seed. The seeds in Hagen Tropimix bird food have all been hulled making this nutritious blend a less- mess bird food choice as well.
 
And that’s only one part of the bird cleaning puzzle. You still have to deal with the food particulate, the stuff they rub off their beaks onto the cage bars. And the poop! How much can they poop? A lot actually, about every 15 minutes, this helps keep the body evacuated meaning lighter weight for flight. And it’s everywhere!
 
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Because birds have a cloaca, they can combine excretion and defecation into one dropping, making it a combination of black (defecation) and white (uric acid from excretion) components. This is the stuff that hardens. There’s a number of ways to remove hardened poop, but before we go there, for many smaller birds, placing a folded sheet of newspaper directly on the grate (the floor of the bird cage) and then placing food dishes on top of the newspaper will catch food and help keep the grate clean . 
 
We’ve seen various solutions for covering the bird cage refuse tray. Newspaper is the the most popular but certainly not the only answer. One high tech product comes from Prevue Pet – T3 Cage Liner anti microbial paper
 
Some small bird owners prefer paper towels in the bird cage tray. One approach we really like is the use of Press’n Seal wrap seen in this How to clean your bird cage in 3 minutes – video. We looked at a bunch of bird cage cleaning videos and felt the one below was a good all around guide – plus it includes reminders to do things like bird toy safety checks during the cleaning process

 
 
The more often you clean a bird cage, the less you’ll clean a bird cage. If you wait for a long time you’ll will feel more like miner than just a bird cage cleaner, especially if you have a big bird. For day-to-day cleaning up Poop Off wipes are handy. If not in your budget, a vinegar and water solution will work. Spray bottles are good tools especially to get poop damp before trying to remove it. 
 
Our all time favorite bird cage cleaning tool is the hand held bird cage steamer because it cleans and sanitizes with no chemicals. It will melt poop and food debris off bird cage bars, perches and accessories quickly and efficiently. It also allows you to clean the bird cage without moving it.
 
The bird cage steam cleaner allows you to clean your bird cage where it is without dragging the whole thing or parts to a bathroom or back yard. Easy cleaning in the winter too. 
 
If you’re of the mind to schlep the cage to the back yard for a power washing or hose down, remember, no matter how good the powder coating is on the bird cage, several of the bird cage pieces are hollow metal which will hold moisture and accelerate rust from the inside out. So cut it out.
 
You can sanitize your bird cage with Mango Pet Focus. On a budget? A diluted bleach water solution (a cap full in 1/2 gallon of water) will work to sanitize your bird cage too 

Hope these tips for helpful and if you really think about it spending a few minutes a day cleaning your cage is better than an hour on a Saturday isn’t it?

 

 
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written by Mitch Rezman CMO
Windy City Parrot, Inc
Simply Everything for Exotic Birds – Since 1993

 

Just got a lutino female cockatiel

Lutino Cockatiel Sleping
 
Just got a lutino female cockatiel. Any tips on how to keep her happy and healthy would be appreciated. This is my first bird so i have no idea what to do lol. Thanks

Hi David – congratulations on your new relationship. I’m hopeful it will be fruitful and long-lasting. I don’t know if you’ve been following on our blog or if you are on our email list but about five months ago we acquired a white face Lutino through a rescue.

 
We’ve chronicled some of Popcorn’s stories. A couple of weeks ago I related how we decided to keep her flighted and the work we were doing with her to make her better flyer. You can read about that here and then decide if you want to keep your bird flight it or not.
 

Popcorn on the top landing door of her work cage.
Click here for more details of this 2 door Cockatiel cage from Prevue
 
Volumes have been and will be written on how to have a good relationship with cockatiels. It’s important to start at the beginning and understand birds are instinctively “flock animals”. Now you and your family have now become your birds flock and she expects to have interaction with you verbally and physically. Shall want to be part of your conversations and shall want to be with you at the dinner table. Because popcorn wanted to walk across her plates we now give her a little something of what ever we are eating and lock her in the cage just so we can get through a meal without cockatiel prints in the mashed potatoes.
 
Popcorn is very hand tame and has never bitten us and that’s the first place that you would want to start. It will make the relationship more enjoyable. Be sure that you pet her around the head and the neck area, no lower so as not to stimulate her hormonally. 
 
Cockatiels can live in a birdcage 18 x 18 but we prefer to see them in something closer to 22 x 17 or bigger. Plenty of fresh food and water are a given. They can be messy and it took a few days but popcorn is now very comfortable in her Seed Coral it really eliminated the seed mess
 
Cockatiels are agile and great climbers don’t worry about making it easy for her to get around the. Make sure that you have plenty of perches so that she is constantly exercising her feet. Popcorn is a prolific chewer and we have lots of chew up toys that were constantly introducing to her that keep her busy when she is in the cage this is one of her favorites
 
Popcorn whistles a lot but doesn’t verbalize and I’m told that female cockatiels are not good talkers You may run into an occasional male that talks. Whenever she’s chirping about its her way of communicating to you and sooner or later you’ll begin to realize what some of her sounds mean. I can tell you it’s very clear that when we have left her alone for more than a few hours which is very rare, she will bawl us out for several minutes even if we open up the cage door – it’s always good to be missed:-)
 
We encourage you to introduce some sort of full spectrum lighting above or around the cage so she gets at least 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. (Covering the cage at night). This is because cockatiels are from Australia close to th equator and their bodies anticipate a more than even type of lighting unlike sunlight that is constantly changing in North America – the shorter days in the winter stresses birds out.
 
if you see your bird hanging upside down with its wings spread like a bat, that’s a good thing that mean she’s just being happy and playful.
 
There are reams of stuff to talk about so please watch our blog or our email list which can be found here at the top of our Learning Center- best of luck to you.
 
BTW, I like the old truck in your cover photo, check out my cover photo sometime – It’s a Vincent Black Lightning written by its designer Rollie Free in a speed record attempt at the Bonneville Salt Flats, 1948 – he stripped down to his shorts to reduce wind resistance – he reached a record average speed of 150.313 mph – for real 
 
Best of Luck
 
Mitch Rezmn

A U2 that is a picker, a screamer, hates water and is getting meaner!

Custom_screeching_moluccan_cockatoo2.jpg
 
Dear Windy City,

I receive your e-mails daily and admire the tips and tricks that you provide. So, I’m writing to you now in hope that you might be able to help me.

I have a U2 that is a picker, a screamer, hates water and is getting meaner! For plucking, I’ve tried more attention, I’ve tried more toys, (mixing and rearranging). I have a canopy created so she has privacy and security.
 
She screams if i open the front door an am not inside. I am aware that this could be her feeling unsafe due to not knowing that shes okay behind glass. I don’t cater to every scream, as I know that could just cause it to get worse. (Like a three year old.) 

If I leave, the television or the radio stays on and I put her in her cage but she lets herself out. She’s chewed every screw off her cage. So, she’s not lonely. This makes me worry about the over-plucking. I give her baths, but she hates them. I make her take them and she squawks and tries to get out of the tub. She’s also afraid of everything, but when she’s getting her way, she is SUPER cuddly. I’ve had people tell me they’ve never seen a bird let someone get that cuddly and close. 

Recently, I have been given a Yorkie puppy and she’s gotten hellacious. Normally, shes not worried about the animals at all. She deliberately climbs down her cage at night to go after my other dog, which she has known forever. 

I’m afraid something is wrong and I don’t know what to do. I can’t afford to take her to a vet and I don’t want to get rid of her, she’s my baby and I know she’s a handful, but I’m going nuts!
 
Please, if you could offer ANY advice, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
Brittany and Shelly

I wish I had a simple solution or magic potion to offer, but I don’t. You clearly have a host of problems and they need to be addressed both on an individual basis as well as looking at the birds behavior holistically.

 
One piece of information lacking in your description is the age of the bird. He may be going through hormonal changes that need to be addressed that information would be helpful.
 
First off, I’d say if you bird hates the baths. Stop with the baths for now because it’s one more thing your bird is going to hold against you. Going into the winter months with the heat on is definitely drier, I would introduce a humidifier to maintain moisture in the air. I know dander is a big problem with cockatoos and bathing helps but right now this might not be the time to force you bird to bathe.
 
Screaming is part of a cockatoos relationship with Cockatoo and barring any random cockatoos in your home, humans. Screaming is something that you have to accept just not incessant screaming with the bird’s vocal all the time. It’s important that neither you nor anyone in your family is yelling back at the bird to “shut up” or “be quiet” because that will only make your bird scream more. 
 
When we yelled back to any screaming bird screaming bird the bird thinks, we are engaging them and they are happy to have the conversation. They can’t necessarily the control level of their screeches, but basically they’re saying, “hey, how you doing, let’s talk what’s going on how was your day?” and so forth
 
To be a companion to a big cockatoo you must tolerate a certain amount screaming daily (30 minutes or so a day is good) but not the screaming that goes on all day. There’s a couple of things you can try such as covering the cage like a child’s timeout. Another thing you can do something called a misdirection.
 
What you’ll need is a pot in a wooden spoon or a ladle at the ready in a room that the bird is NOT in. When the bird starts screaming, I want you to go into the room with the pot and the spoon – and bang bang bang! The bird should shut up momentarily because he will be curious about the sound. At that point calmly but rapidly walk into the room where the bird who is momentarily silent. Speak lots of praise in a high friendly voice and have one of their favorite treats like sunflower seed or peanut -something to reward them for the silence.
 
Plucking – I could probably write a book on this that never ends. The triggers of plucking are many. One of the things we talk about a regular basis is understanding that birds in the wild will spend 3 to 5 hours a day flying many miles making many stops in their search for food.
 
In captivity we give them abundant food and water and so their feeding is over and about 15 minutes then we wonder why they get bored. More toys, and simply rearrange them might not be the answer the question is what toys are you using? Are there any interactive toys in your mix? Is the bird being challenged on a regular basis? Are you using the toys to make your bird feel secure? I know that sounds like an question but with needy cockatoos the feel very insecure it’s important the toys act as the canopy of the tree they would be living in the wild you can read more about that here.
 
Trying to figure out what to do with the e interspecies play is going to be a judgment call on your part. It sounds like there’s some jealousy involved here and it could be triggered by hormonal issues. It it may because it’s a male, you don’t mention anything about nesting activities so without more information this is about as far as I can go.
 
I hope you this gives you a good start.
 
Mitch Rezman

Our Top 10 Exotic Bird Sites Worth the Visit List

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If you have or are thinking of getting an Eclectus parrot, this is the go to site. You will find subjects covering everything from general care to Eclectuscentric recipes, an art gallery humor and even Eclectus movies
A robust site providing information on anything cockatiel related. Cockatiel diets, cockatiels that bite, taming cockatiels, egg laying females – the list is endless
Current and future African Grey companions would do well to spend some time on this site with hundreds of threads devoted to our grey feathered friends

Many Feathers
When somebody calls seeking information and they say “I have a macaw” we will always asking what kind? Between large and Mini Macaws there’s probably more than 2 dozen species of Macaws but the hybrids add whole new dimension. Guaranteed to be a lot of fun with some birds you’ve never dreamed of.

The Hagen Avricultural Research Institute founded by Mark Hagen (the developer and man in charge of ensuring the three brands of Hagen bird foods are the top quality). This website gives you a tour of their breeding facility (more than 250 breeding pairs are assessed daily for overall health), tips from the staff veterinarians, useful information sheets, research papers, tips form the (on site) vets among other tidbits -definitely worth the click.

The American Federation of Aviculture
As stated on their website, the AFA defines anyone keeping exotic birds in captivity as an “aviculturist” but AFAadvocates that this designation carries with it certain responsibilities transcending those of the owners of domesticated pets like dogs and cats.AFA believes holders of exotic birds need to be aware of the special needs of the species they hold, be aware of their conservation status, up-to-date research findingsenhancing the well-being of the birds, and the state and federal regulations pertaining to exotic birds.

AAV.org
Need to find a birdcentric vet in your hometown? Here’s a page that searches for all the avian vets in your area. Welcome to the Association of Avian Veterinarians.
Parrot Alert 911
We’ll tell anybody with a bird who has clipped wings God intended birds to fly whether or not they are missing a few feathers – accidents happen. Popcorn our rescue Cockatiel was fully flighted when we found her so she must’ve escaped. God forbid you should lose your bird or if you find an exotic bird this is the website to post information.

Webring

Webring is about discussions and information relating to your hobbies and interests it’s a huge site with the proverbial something for everyone. This link takes you to 23 “ring communities” relating to parrots. Some rings cover specific species like African grays and some are universal like “parrots on the web” It’s been around long before Facebook and there’s probably a community waiting for you to join.
A great resource in your area can be local bird clubs. The largest list you’ll find of bird clubs both national and international can be found right on Windy City Parrot. Want your club on the list? Reach out to us onFacebook
At the risk of tooting our own horn, whether you’re a fan or not, stop by the biggest fan page on Facebook dedicated exclusively to the feeding and care of exotic birds – WindyCityParrot.com

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Thank you for being a subscriber
written by Mitch Rezman CMO
Windy City Parrot, Inc
Simply Everything for Exotic Birds – Since 1993
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Introducing birds to Roudybush pellets or crumbles

Introducing birds to Roudybush pellets or crumblesi
Buy Roudybush Bird Food Pellets

These instructions are found on bags of Roudybush bird food

 
Birds that had never been fed pellets or crumbles generally do not recognize the is food at first. Also, pellets are lower in fat than seeds, so at first most birds will not like them as much as seeds. Some birds readily accept pellets or crumbles as soon as they realize they are edible. While some individuals are very resistant to switching
 
Ways to switch your birds over to pellets or crumbles:
 
1) Controlled Cold Turkey: this method may be used with finicky, resistant birds that are starting out at a normal or excessive body weight. Remove all the old diet and fill the theaters with pellets. If you have the ability to weigh your bird, weigh it first thing in the morning on the day of the switch. weigh your bird every morning.
 
If your bird loses more than 3 to 5% of its body weight, put it back at its old diet for one to two weeks, then try the switch again. If you are unable to weigh your bird, change the cage papers the day you make the switch and do not use litters, so you can evaluate the droppings. If the fecal part of the dropping is small and dark reign or black or if the droppings have no fecal portion, it means your bird is not eating.
 
You can go for two full days for small species of birds and three full days for large species of birds. If your birds droppings are still anorexic at the end of the switch. Put your bird back on its old diet for one to two weeks and then try the switch again. Most birds will switch the first time. The most finicky birds may take three attempts.
 
2) Gradual Switch:
 
This technique works with birds that will try and eat many different foods. Mixe three quarters of the original diet with one quarter of the Roudybush pellets or crumbles. Feed this mixture for 1 to 2 weeks. Continue increasing the proportion of Roudybush when you reach three quarters or more Roudybush, change the cage papers and do not use litter so you can evaluate droppings.
 
If you see anorexic droppings (see description in above controlled cold turkey), and more of the original diet for a week or two. This method is slower but safer for those owners who cannot closely monitor their birds. T
 
3) Act as if you were eating the Roudybush: Many birds will try foods they see their owners eating. Many birds will like Roudybush pellets. Once they have tried them as treats from their owner and convert easily after that always make sure your bird droppings indicate they are eating. Once you completely make the switch to pellets
 
4) Handfeed as a treat: Some birds will eat almost anything they think you are eating. Act as if you are eating the Roudybush then offer some to your bird. This can be sufficient to teach your bird that Roudybush is food. Then the old food can be replaced with Roudybush. Again, watch the droppings when you make the complete switch.
 
5) Soak the Roudybush in juice: Some birds like moist foods and like certain fruits or fruit juices. Putting a bowl of pellets soaked in orange juice, apple juice, or fruit nectars may entice such a bird to eat the pellets. If this method is used make sure you only leave the soaked pellets in the cage for an hour or so to prevent spoilage. Once the bird is eating the soaked pellets, gradually decrease the amount of juice.
 
Buy Roudybush Bird Food Pellets

Bird seed blend which would have no safflower or sunflower.

Bird seed blend which would have no safflower or sunflower
 
ive been feeding my 12 conures and cockatiels friends
kaytee cockatiel fortidiet and then top layer with roudybush pellets for many years. their doctor objects to the safflower and sunflower too much fat. (i also feed vegatables) can you suggest a replacement for fortidiet?Customer
We can approach this a couple of ways. Harold. It’s very difficult to eliminate safflower, sunflower, totally because it’s in 95% of bird food blends in that bird size range. So because you are introducing Roudybush pellets which are nutritionally complete, you can consider going to a parakeet or Canary seed blend which would have no safflower or sunflower.

Because you are already serving Roudybush you may want to consider Roudybush, California blend which contains ingredients other than the pellets rounding out the diet
 
Goldenfeast has a Conure blend gourmet which although it does contain safflower and sunflower components. They are very small proportion to the overall food.
 
Lastly Higgins offers a line called Safflower Gold, which does have safflower, but it has no sunflower which eliminates part of the problem. Here are the links to these products. I hope this helps
 
Mitch
 
http://www.birdandparrot.info/Roudybush-California-Blend-44-oz-Medium-food.html
 
http://www.birdandparrot.info/Goldenfeast-Conure-Blend-Gourmet-Bird-Food-28-oz_p_2722.html
 
http://www.birdandparrot.info/Higgins-Safflower-Gold-Natural-Conure-Cockatiel-Bird-Food–Small-25-lb–NO-Sunflower-Seeds_p_3281.html

Flight is a Bird’s Greatest Gift – Are You a Gift Giver or Taker?

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Email info@WindyCityParrot.com 24/7 for Bird Care and Pre or Post Sales Questions

Disclaimer. I fully understand if you clip you bird’s wings. Large birds especially in homes with 8 foot ceilings and lots of windows open themselves up to injury from flight. I like flighted birds but what’s right for me in is not necessarily right for you.


Popcorn on the top landing door of her work cage.
Click here for more details of this 2 door Cockatiel cage from Prevue
For those of you who have not followed Popcorn’s Big Adventure allow me bring you up to speed. When you do a search for anything bird or parrot related we have high Google search rankings. Rankings are even higher if you do a search from a computer in the Chicago metropolitan area.
 
On a regular basis we get called by strangers, the police and fire departments to rescue anything the appears to to be an exotic bird. So it was with great interest I responded to a call for a white bird in the bushes not two blocks from the Birdie Boutique. It was a warm day, I grabbed a backpack birdcage and strolled 2 blocks north on Western Ave where al woman was waiting on the steps of her brownstone a few feet away from a small white bird who was more or less stuck in the front yard hedges.
 

She was was clearly flighted (her escape MO) and scared. I grabbed her taking the anticipated the bite, felt the rush:-), grabbed her around the neck dropped the towel over her (which I had brought), stuffed her little but into the cage and hiked back to the shop. (Note: Parrots have a pharynx unlike humans that have a larynx, thus a thumb and forefinger around a birds neck is a safe and easy way to restrain them. Conversely squeezing a bird around its chest can suffocate them)

We put her in a small 18 x 18 cage in the corner of the shop and Paid our due diligence by filing reports with Parrot Alert 911. and posting around Facebook. We’ve been bird free for the past three years and not even thinking about leaving the bird and little cage at work we brought a cage home and now were shuttling little Princess daily. So it was no stretch when Catherine asked me “do we want to think about keeping this bird?” I said yes with no hesitation. So here we are about five months later. Popcorn has a beautiful Cockatiel Palace at work and an HQ 702 that was sitting in the corner of the warehouse. But I’m getting ahead of myself. That said when we brought Popcorn home we knew she was flighted. My first morning trying to get out of the house with her to go to work she took off while trying to get her into her travel cage I lost sight of her as she flew about the apartment frantically. I couldn’t find her for 10 or 15 minutes. She’d fallen behind a large cabinet in the bedroom. Fortunately she sustained no injury. When I got to the shop we clipped her.

 
In the ensuing weeks her primary flight feathers started growing back while at the same time she was molting. Week by week as her wings grew she gained confidence. A jump off the cage door to a soft landing on an area rug led to flight across a room to see what mom was eating. Within a couple of months we all knew she was capable of sustained flight from an elevated surface and after about three months she could provide enough lift to get to a cage even the shower rod from the floor. (Have you ever thought about enormous amount of energy it takes for bird to instantly gain altitude from being quite still on the ground?)
 
It wasn’t without great debate that Catherine relented with my assurances safety would be my utmost priority with our new sky pilot. We live long wide 80-year-old apartment in Chicago with nine and a half foot ceilings. All the windows have shutters with drapes and shades. Were we do have open glass we placed flower arrangements in front of it. We let her fly into the kitchen as long as nothing is cooking and she has her own play stand atop the dishwasher. She knows if she comes in the bathroom she has her own towel across shower rod. Although in the bedroom she always picks the floor or the bed 7 just refuses to land on a stand anywhere in the room. She’s a BIG help when comes time to making the bed – not.
 
Her home cage (like her work cage) has a landing door and even though there is a Capital shade with a full spectrum light on top, there’s enough room to land. She has been getting better at landing on the horizontal faces of the cage too which is a great development and a testament to her control. Once I saw her horizontal flight Getting more consistent in less erratic, II made sure of it coming home every day, taking her out of her travel cage and gently tossing her the direction of her home cage from a foot or 2 away. Each day the toss would be a little farther. She has learned this is where it’s always safe to land.
 
Sometimes she becomes a sticky bird. She’ll be on my fingers and I’ll try to toss her towards the cage and feel her little feet get tighter like she was velcored to me. What’s really cool now is when I’m at my desk which is about 10 feet away from her cage, knowing she not going to let gow of my fingers willingly, we’re now both so confident that I just gently grab her around her wings and body the do an underhand toss in the direction of her cage. She’ll keep her wings tucked, dip for a millisecond then flap flap flap land. I can’t get enough of that!
 

Sometimes she’ll just leave her cage and start doing figure eights at home and at the store (which has 10 and a half foot ceilings) but always landing on a “known” landing the zone or one of us. I’ve gotten a shoulder landing a couple of times but she’ll usually land on the top of one of our heads. Popcorn’s flight gives me enormous joy.

 
While reviewing some links and a new video that had been added recently- the Hagen How to Groom Flight Feathers. One of the tips mentioned – birds should learn to fly and land before the first wing clipping. Another was not to trim a young bird’s nails AND wings at the same time because it may reduce their confidence. What I really like about the video is the close ups of precisely where to cut the feathers on the bird’s wings.

Should you keep your bird flighted? I think it’s an argument that will last forever. Greg Glendell is a strong advocate for keeping birds flighted. He lays out his case and starts with “So, ALL birds are subject to risks in the home, whether they are flighted or not: clipped birds are just subjected to *different* risks than those of flighted birds. Generally, wing-clipping is done for owner-convenience, rather than bird ‘welfare’ Read the rest of Keeping birds flighted here.

Does this make it right for you and your bird? Not necessarily. You may be in a small house or apartment with lots of (confusing) windows. You may have other animals you don’t want riled up. If that’s the case, clip the wings. It’s not as hard as you think.
 
 
 
Squawk at you next week
Thank you for being a subscriber
written by Mitch Rezman CMO
Windy City Parrot, Inc
Simply Everything for Exotic Birds – Since 1993

Why are Booda Soft Rope Perches So Necessary in Your Cage?

Why are Booda Soft Rope Perches So Necessary in Your Cage?
 

Although we sell thousands of bird products, certain items stand out among the rest. Booda Soft Rope Comfy Perches are one of them. Let’s start with the fact that a bird who lives 30 years and sleeps on the same perch spend more than 100,000 hours on that perch. Take into account that birds are able to lock their feet around a perch because of something called a flexor tendon on the outer portion of their leg. (This is why birds can sleep standing up or even on one leg without falling over.) Birds also have fewer nerves in their feet which is nature’s way of allowing them to land on prickly tree branches and other normally (for other animals) inhospitable surfaces.

So tightly gripping an abrasive surface for all that time has the potential for soreness, abrasions and infection. Wouldn’t it be nice to know that you could avoid these problems? That’s where Booda Soft Rope Comfy Perches. They provide a soft surface for your bird’s feet to grip. They are washable so they have a long useful lifetime. They’re also flexible which makes them more versatile than you ever imagined.

 

Use them for sleeping perches, fun perches, or as bridges between cage and play stand. They can be stand alone play tops (or play sides) and can easily be rearranged and reshaped on a regular basis which will challenge your bird mentally and physically. They are available in three rope diameters. The three diameters of rope perches, come in three lengths. Comfy Crosses, Comfy Swings and Byrdy Bushes each come in three sizes. The large variety of sizes will accommodate any kind of caged birds from Gouldian Finches to Hyacinth Macaws.

Rather than blathering on about these wonderful items, we did what we do with a lot of stuff we’re passionate about, we made a video and hope it’ll explain everything.

 
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