At last week’s Sunday Birdie Brunch we talked about the the differences of beaks among various species of (exotic) birds. Wikipedia had a very specific list if you remember based on the”soft food” diets. This breaks down to six categories and you can read about that here
Caged bird keepers know that bills are not something you pay, it’s thing on the front of your birds face.
Birds Unlimited posted a comment in last week’s blog about light and vitamin deficiencies. The incriminating statement I made was. “Finches are softbill birds & not able to crack the husks of seeds larger birds or “hookbills” never giving it a second thought having always lumped finches with softbills in the same category – which is incorrect I’ve come to find. Let’s do some fact checking, shall we?
I am a bird lover and have few pairs of budgies, cockateils, finches, Love birds and Alexender Raw.
Due to space issue i have all in one room where Sun light comes only for few minutes. I think due to lack of Sun Light, my birds have deficiency of D3 and Calcium. Could you please guide me if Hagon’s PRIME will work for me or I have to add any other vitamin’s?
Waiting for your response,
“Correlation does not imply causation” is a phrase used in science and statistics to emphasize that a correlation between two variables does not necessarily imply that one causes the other. Unless you have all of the birds tested for a full blood panel workup, you really have no basis for your diagnosis. Also the calcium deficiencies thing? Where are you getting your data?
Calcium deficiencies will typically present themselves in female birds while brooding or in actual egg laying mode. It’s not a major concern for male birds. Cuttlebone is highly overrated and misunderstood for that very reason.
Your calcium conundrum gets diminshed because it only applies to the females. Unless you are physically checking their cervical areas for eggs, you’re seeing eggs being laid, or you have a male bird – don’t worry about calcium deficiencies.
Remember ROYGBIV from grade school? Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Indigo Violet? That’s what we mere mortals see. Birds can see ultraviolet light invisible to us outside the ROYGBIV spectrum. They see colors on feathers of other birds during mating that are only visible to potential feathered mates.
The whole sunlight vitamin D3 scam is another widely misunderstood concept. For the production of vitamin D3 to occur in an animal enhanced by sunlight, the full-spectrum light they are receiving, must contain UVA and UVB parts of the spectrum.
The “UV” stands for Ultra Violet. (UVA and UVB also send signals directly to something called the pineal gland in parrots which gives the bird a sense of “well-being”) The problem is even if your birds were lucky enough to live in a 100% glass atrium in your home, they would not benefit from the UVA and UVB rays of the sun because those rays are blocked by window glass
Getting back to your dimly/poorly lit room we need to define a path which will improve you birds overall lighting strategy. It’s important to understand that light has a fourfold implication for your birds which you can read about here
Because your original question funnels down to nutritional issues here is what I recommend. Although your birds are all relatively small they do have some unique nutritional needs. Finches are softbill birds & not able to crack the husks of seeds larger birds or “hookbills” can.
If you are on a tight budget you can probably use a combination of Higgins Vita seed blends. Most seed diets today are vitamin fortified but the manufacturers simply coat the seeds with the vitamins.
When the bird removes the hull from the seed, the vitamin fortification falls to the bottom of the cage. So with even the best seed diets, we recommend a multivitamin like Hagen Prime to ensure the lack of any vitamin deficiencies
Delivering powdered supplements to birds can be a challenge. We found the best way to do that is to sprinkle the supplement on Classic Lafebers Avicakes Avicakes are held together by molasses so powdered supplements easily stick to them.
More importantly I’d like you to take note that your birds can literally live a long and healthy life eating nothing but Classic Lafebers Avicakes. besides all the great tasting seeds and ingredients, they provide a tasty base for embedded pellets.
Pellets are what we call “engineered food” for birds developed to fulfill 100% of the nutritional needs of your birds, all but guaranteeing the lack of any nutritional deficiency in captive birds.
We checked Wikipedia and could find no mention of pellet trees in the rainforest. Consider yourself warned that as effective as they are in terms of kilo calorie output per dollar spent – pellets are counterintuitive to birds
Classic Lafebers Avicakes.make pellets funner because the pellets are surrounded by seeds and other good stuff. Some birds embrace pellets others do not. Some caged bird keepers mix a pellet with their seed mix.
Goldenfeast bird food can have as many as 50 human grade ingredients in any given blend making it extraordinarily healthy and attractive most birds. Higgins Mayan Harvest brings together exotic, natural ingredients and holistic herbs.
Here’s the thing A.Qadir. because your birds currently lack natural sunlight, you’ll want to get the room lit up artificially. You’ll want the lighting on timers so you birds get 10 to 12 hours of daylight and the rest of darkness which is natural to the birds.
Having oodles of full spectrum light with uva & uvb will enable you to better see the luster or lack there of feather colors and the quality of the “feather sheen” which will give you a much better sense of the overall health of your birds. Lots of artificial full spectrum lighting will also make your birds feel better about themselves.
BTW – the cheapest most effective form of diagnosis available to you as a caged Bird keeper is to weigh your birds weekly. Significant & rapid changes in body weight can be a key indicator of your birds health degradation while their physical demeanor remains unchanged.
Hope that helps