We don’t sell bulk bird food in any form because we don’t want to make your bird sick. Aside from that not-so-minor detail if you’re buying re-bagged bird food you don’t know:
1) When it expires (or when it was produced)
2) If it’s been exposed to birds
3) If it’s kept in bins and the bins are not washed out and sanitized before each refill you don’t know what has been collected in the bottom of the bins. This is a breeding ground for molds that can potentially contribute to Aspergillosis (see explanation above)
4) You have no guarantee that fillers have not been added
5) You’re never really sure what you are getting & what you paid for. Bulk food usually doesn’t have an ingredient panel on the bag.
6) Unless their scales are certified by the local health department on a regular basis (as they are for restaurants) bag weights may not be accurate.
7) The country of origin
8) The manufacturer’s warranty which means you can’t get it replaced under warranty should you find the food compromised in any way.
9) What kind of storage building it’s housed in. Much re-bagged bird food comes from people who store their bird food in farm buildings. Many of these buildings have high concentrations of farm animal fecal particulate in the air – which is why they smell like barns.
This insures the bird food comes from a sanitary environment, contains the ingredients listed and the bags and will have full efficacy through the expiration dated imprinted on the sealed bag.
Lastly many of you who buy re-bagged bulk food will say “I’ve never had a problem with it” As someone who sells more than 10,000 pounds of bird food every month I promise you there may come a time you say “until now”
If you feel your birds are wasting bird food – please reach out to us We_Speak_Bird@WindyCityParrot.com for caged bird keeping management solutions that will save you money.
If your bird is hiding in places like this
She’s probably being broody
Although these little nesting areas your bird finds make adorable photographs they should be avoided in order to help reduce the production of eggs if you’re finding this to be a problem. Especially if you have a mating pair.
Cockatiels can be prolific egg layers whether or not they have a mate. You may find that your tiel is laying eggs more frequently than some chickens.
For the most part things can go well but you have to be aware that eggs can get caught up inside the bird which is called egg binding.
The birds body will also reroute calories to the reproductive system pulling them away from their own bodies immune system so you want to keep a close eye on your birds health & demeanor.
The longer days of summer can trigger egg laying activity. If you are using artificial lighting this would be a good time to reduce the birds artificial daylight by an hour or so and cover the cage a little earlier. About 10 hours of lighting tops is all your bird is going to need.
If your bird has an interest in sitting on the eggs let her have them for a few days and pull them after she has gotten tired of them or 3-4 weeks at most, but don’t bother replacing them with fake plastic eggs which are mainly for actual breeding purposes.
With a mating pair of cockatiels, sitting on the eggs is shared duty. A single female cockatoo will feel additional stress for pulling double duty which further depleting her body’s immune system. This would be the proper time to provide a robust multi vitamin and calcium supplement.
If you have problems delivering supplements to your bird watch the video below for a simple solution.
written by mitch rezman
approved by catherine tobsing
First off, I love your site and am grateful to have found it. I like local shops, don’t shop Petco, and most pet stores don’t have a great bird section anyway. I haven’t bought anything yet, but I will.
I’m writing because I have a question about Bell, my quaker parrot. He squeaks. He didn’t used to, and it seems to be getting more pronounced. When he sleeps and sometimes when he eats – it just occurred to me it must be a breathing thing. I should take him to the vet, maybe.
As you can imagine we get a lot of calls and emails about feather plucking problems. Because of this we are the only website on the Internet to have a comprehensive feather plucking category which contains products that we know (based upon feedback from our 70,000 plus customers) are helpful in the reduction and/or the elimination of feather plucking. Many of the emails are quite detailed. Others will ask nothing more than “My bird is plucking what can I do”?
We take them out of the sky – cut off half their wings – confine them to 10 sq ft restricted areas that noway resemble a tree for endless hours in places where the sun sets at 5 PM. We feed them engineered & manufactured food found nowhere in nature.
So why is it such a mystery that even our veterinarians can’t figure out how to prevent the self-destructive behavior that so many of our feathered companions exhibit?
Is this the bird’s first home?
If not, do you have any information on its last home?
Is your home teflon free (including waffle irons & hair dryers)?
Feathered factoid: Eclectus parrots represent about 20% of parrots that are sexually dimorphic meaning you can tell the sex of the bird by it’s color.
Eclectus boys are green, girls are red. Only male Indian Ringnecks – have the ring.
It’s like headlines ripped from supermarket check out tabloids