We’re bringing home an abused African Grey – Can you help?

Hi, we’re thinking of bringing home an African Grey, we would be her third home. Her first was abusive, and she was a plucker. She is permanently bald on her belly. We think she is about 15 years old.

She has been in her current home for many years, and does not pluck any more. I was wondering if you had any advice for what she might need just in regards to being bald. We do keep our home cool in the winter (about 65) will she need one of those panel heaters? Can I knit her a sweater? lol


Her current cage is 24″ x 36″, which is only marginally bigger than the cage we have for our green cheek. (so in other words, too small for a grey, in OUR opinion) we like to err on the side of bigger is always better.

We don’t want to completely stress her out though, and change her cage if she’s comfortable with it. What is your opinion of what we should do… keep her in her current cage temporarily, or permanently? Also, would it be prudent to take photos of her current cage set up and re-assemble everything as closely as possible when we get it home?


Green cheek conure in mans hand


So that the perch and toy lay out is all the same? Also, we currently have a green cheek conure, and I was looking to buy shower/ window perches for both birds is there one that would work for both, or should I get different ones? Can you recommend which perch for each bird? Thanks! Jessica


Dear Jessica


How nice that you are planning to bring home a rescued Grey, even plucked ones need love.

It is good she is not still plucking, yes they can permanently damage their feather follicles. If your home is that cool with a partially naked bird then you may want to provide a Thermo Panel or a Thermo Perch.

I would go with the larger of the two panels or the Medium Thermo Perch. I do not think a sweater will be appreciated if she is not plucking, you really don’t need to put her through the stress of clothes.


female eclectus parrot on perch in front of cage panel heater

Warm the bird not the house
Buy heating products for young & sick birds


If she is plucking then perhaps a sweater or even a vest made out of a large white sock with holes cut out for the head and wings and shortened may be helpful. The cage. Is the bird going to be out of the cage for a good portion of the day? Or will it be locked up most of the day and perhaps come out in the evening?


If your bird will be in its cage much of the time then 30″ wide is the size recommended for a Grey. If the bird is out most of the time, the cage does not have to be as large. A new cage should not be a problem.

Setting it up exactly like the old cage is also not necessary, change should be the key here. Often birds get bored with the same day in and out and it can contribute to plucking.

Change is what birds need to keep them open to new things, places, toys, etc. Shower perches. They can use the same Shower Perch, but not a small one. You would want the Large Polly’s Shower Perch. Both birds can use it. I hope this helps, please let me know if you need any further information.


Thank you Catherine


Thank you! *Most* days our green cheek is out for a minimum of 2 hrs a day, usually up to 6-8 hours a day. There is usually one day a week when I’m gone, and he might just come out for breakfast, then a half hour snuggle before bed.


Those days we make sure there are new toys and new foraging opportunities in his cage before we leave. (I’m a stay at home/ home-schooling mom) As for the sweater, I was kidding, lol it would certainly be cheaper than a personal heater, but I don’t think the bird would appreciate it lol.

As for keeping the cage the same, I only meant as she transitioned to her new home. If she already knows the layout to her cage, would it be good to keep it like that for a few weeks?

We routinely take everything out of our greencheek’s cage and move everything except his sleeping perch. Perch arrangement gets changed every 2-3 weeks. Toys get rotated every 3-4 days. Thank you again, I love this store!!!

Hi Jessica


Good that your birds seem very well adjusted. I think the Grey is lucky to have you caring for it. I think the change to your home will be a big enough change that even if you brought the cage in and decorated it exactly as the older smaller cage, it would not be needed.

Just go ahead and dress the cage as you want it to be, make sure the bird has enough things in it to not feel exposed, the saying is “If you see the bird first thing there is not enough in the cage”.


It is good to hear you make a point to move things around. Keeping it fresh is good for your birds. If the grey was actively picking or much more naked. Then a suit would not be a bad idea. There are sweaters and hoodies and all sorts of things for parrots to wear to help them from picking or to keep them warm. Thank you very much for your business and kind words, we appreciate it all.


Hi Catherine

Thank you so much! It’s so reassuring to hear you say that about not seeing your bird first things. I often look into his cage and think “Where’s the bird?!? Did anyone let him out?!?” and then I see him hiding behind some dangly toy LOL I worry that I had TOO MUCH in cage 🙂


One bird’s opinion of Cozy Corners

Find all Prevue petcorner fleece liners sizes & colors hereShop All Bird Bedding accessories at Windy City Parrot

His previous owner said something about having one of those corner cozies, would those work with the thermo perches? They wouldn’t be a fire hazard to have the fleece on the side and the thermo perch under it?

We had a parrot years ago, and remember shopping with you back then, so when we got our Green Cheek this past summer, I was excited to see you still in business, unlike my other favorite online retailer who went out of business. The site looks great, and I look forward to the Sunday brunch newsletter every weekend!

Dear Jessica

As long as your bird has a nice big hollow in the middle top of her cage she will be fine, the toys placed around the inside of the walls and not hanging in her sitting space and smacking her in the head.

It sounds perfect! A Cozy Corner will be fine with a Thermo perch, the perch does not get too hot, if you put your hand around the perch you would feel warmth, but it does not get hot hot, as it is not supposed to be hot.

The panels would get somewhat warmer as they are not meant to be sat on. Birds can move closer or further away as desired.

Thank you Catherine

Hi Jessica – mitchr here

 The thermo perches are factory set to constant 102 degrees Fahrenheit – touchable and provide no fire hazard whatsoever

and properly placed – you can never have too many accessories in the cage


written by catherine tobsing
approved by mitch rezman


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Help! My Bird’s Egg Bound but the Vet Won’t be In Until Tomorrow.

Our cockatiel Popcorn is a prolific egg layer. To the uninitiated many female birds, especially cockatiels and lovebirds will will lay eggs whether or not they have a guy to help around the cage. There you are drinking your morning coffee trying to get ready for work and as you breeze by the cage you see an egg lying on the grate.

Because we know our bird is doing her single mom thing and there is no guy around the egg is definitely infertile. It is not fair to the bird to allow her to try to hatch the egg for weeks.



If your bird is seeking space in drawers or the linen closet

she is being “broody” (looking for a nest)


Plus the single egg on the bottom of the cage is a trigger for your bird to create more eggs, what we call a prolific egg layer. Your preferred course of action is to allow the new proud mommy to perhaps sit on the egg for a couple of days but then pulled it out and any remnants of the nest she was trying to build to facilitate her breeding activities.


That’s only a small part of the problem. Egg production triggers many physiological reactions that impact your bird. For every egg laid more calcium is depleted from the bones. More calories are required to nurture the egg. Thus basic nutrition is diverted from the bird’s system to the egg.

Adjusting phototropic periods can help. People speak of adjusting the amount of hours your full-spectrum light that shines on your bird by changing its timer (you have one right?) to allow less than 12 hours of light per day. In nature, long days and plentiful food and water sources are triggers for laying eggs (fertile ones) because the parent birds know the time is right for longer foraging periods so they will be able to feed the babies and still have enough for themselves.

One method we are still fact checking involves a particular bird supplement and exposing the bird to 72 hours of sunlight shutting down the reproductive system totally. We’re still not sure we’re comfortable with that method.

As a bird ages and if she is producing too many eggs or she is weak from overproduction, she may become “egg bound”. An egg bound bird has an egg that is stuck inside of her. It may be soft, not properly formed, or she simply may not have the energy to push the egg out.



An egg bound bird faces possible death unless veterinary care is sought immediately. If you do have an egg bound bird and an avian veterinarian is not available at the moment you can give her a couple of drops of olive oil on her beak, make sure she is warm and place several drops of the olive oil in her vent. This is where the egg comes out.

The hope here is that the oil will lubricate the egg to facilitate the passing of the egg. It is important that her environment is warm — close to hundred degrees Fahrenheit, that she is getting lots of fresh air and is hydrated. In a perfect world it is best to let nature take its course

How do you know if your bird is egg bound? If your bird is laying eggs take a look at her belly and check to see that is not distended. It can be difficult to determine but if you see her on the bottom of the cage all puffy, dropping really wet poop or possibly not pooping at all because the egg is interfering with poop leaving the body, please do know that emergencies happen when your vet is not available. In addition to using the olive oil, you can place her in the bathroom and turn the shower on hot, developing a lot of steam and creating a very moist environment. Try to achieve around 100 degrees F. Place the bird on a warm, moist towel. This will hopefully relax the bird so she can dilate and perhaps be able to pass the egg. You can also try a very shallow warm bath; the water should cover her vent area well.

We don’t recommend that you try to massage the egg out like in the video below because you risk the chance of breaking the egg which only complicates matters further in term of inviting infection and possible death.

bound egg massaged out by avian veterinarian

If you’re lucky enough to get the egg to pass intact, keep your bird in a warm quiet environment until the shock and the stress pass and she’s back to her regular routine of eating, treating, sleeping high in the cage, playing and pooping

Can egg binding be avoided? Possibly. If your bird does in fact have a calcium deficiency which is common in breeding hens or cases of vitamin D deficiency — a condition that you can only determine by a blood workup at a vet’s office, the hen may end up with a bound egg. Calcium supplements added to the food, mineral blocks, cuttle bone or crushed egg shells from hard-boiled eggs (boiling or baking kills the bacteria) are great for hens that are going to breed or lay eggs without a male present..

We talk about the negative health implications of birds on an all seed diet. Egg binding could possibly be a by-product of a diet low in protein.

Birds that do not get exercise, are not allowed to fly and or kept in bird cages that are too small will have poorly developed muscles makes it is harder for them to push an egg out of their body. This especially holds true for older birds.

A note added by Nora: As I was editing Mitch’s article, it brought to mind the only case of egg binding I’ve had to deal with first hand. I rescued a blind male and fully sighted female cockatiel, removing them from a neglectful situation. I could not separate them because she was his “seeing eye bird”. The were well under-weight and it was summer so the days were long and hormones were active.

My birds all enjoyed a good diet including seeds, treats, mineral blocks, fruits and vegetables. I began providing for the abused pair until I could get them healthy enough to stand the stress of moving to the lady who operated a facility just for handicapped birds. I already had 15 birds in an apartment, I just couldn’t take on another pair.

About two weeks into building their weight, I arrived home on a Friday afternoon — an hour after any vets would have closed — to find tons of poop all over the cage and the frightened female huddled on the cage floor, with fluffed feathers, eyes barely opened, in obvious pain and periodically having spasm-like motions as she continued to tried to push the stuck egg out. She had already reached the point in egg binding of severe prolapse (her insides were hanging out). I tried the methods above, but she was just too weak to push the egg out. .

I found an emergency vet clinic in the phone book that said in their ad that they were open 24/7, so I called. I asked if the on-duty vet had dealt with egg binding in small parrots that had prolapse and learned he had successfully saved several egg bound hens. I rushed her to the clinic, speeding like crazy all the way, where the vet successfully removed the egg.

The hen pulled through the recovery process just fine and was back to normal in a week. It wasn’t more expensive than a regular vet appointment either. Remember if egg binding signs appear in your hen and nothing seems to help her pass the egg, most cities, even small ones, have an emergency vet clinic that operates expanded hours.

written by mitch rezman
approved by catherine tobsing

your zygodactyl foot note


A Conversation with Glen Glendell, UK Parrot Behaviorist: Biting Parrots (Topic 1 of 3)

Blue and gold macaw parrot on mans hand wings outstretched on black back ground

A Conversation with Glen Glendell, UK Parrot Behaviorist: Biting Parrots (Topic 1 of 3)

A while back, I had the opportunity to have a long teleconference with Greg Glendell, UK parrot behaviorist and author of several parrot training books.

Our discussion covered 3 main topics, at least one of which haunts many parrot owners. In each part of this series, I will summarize one of the key topics of our conversation, which covered:

  1. Biting Parrots
  2. Screaming Parrots
  3. Feather Plucking Parrots

Read moreA Conversation with Glen Glendell, UK Parrot Behaviorist: Biting Parrots (Topic 1 of 3)

Check out farming parrots in their gardens – are they the real macaws?

Generally speaking the answer is ‘No, parrots do not make good “Intentional” farmers as they destroy more than they build. Ironically that mess on your floor which was clean 15 minutes ago is an example of nature’s way of using birds as agents to spread seeds throughout the earth. As an example, birds do not have receptors for capsaicin, the protein that makes peppers hot, so birds will still eat the peppers and disperse the seeds. You and I on the other hand will need to drink lots of beer to put out the mouth fire.

Before moving forward I’d like to note that what you are about to read is a digital collaboration between me and Nora – unbeknownst to her as I write this but she will be making the final edits on this post. The original title was “Grow a Garden for Your Parrot” but clearly there is a difference between what men think about parrots and farming


and what women think about growing stuff for parrots

herb garden with blue and white parakeet on basket handle

What’s interesting is the day Nora completed a final draft of this blog post I received the following question from Shelly C, a Windy City Parrot customer:


My family loves to cook, but we often wonder if the spices we use are safe for our birds. For example, this morning our banana pancakes which included some ingredients I am not sure about, such as nutmeg, & ginger. Then I wonder about other spices in other dishes. Is there any trusted resource that you recommend to reference or overall people food lists? So much conflicting info is found on the internet that I don’t know what to trust. Thank you.


Anyone can plant a garden for their parrot and provide fresh greens and seed heads that are close to nature and a nutritious, natural treat for their parrots. Every bird, from small to large, loves to have fresh greens to nibble on and play in.

My reply:

and here they are – on the internet – safe spices and herbs for birds: Alfalfa Leaf – Anise – Astragalus Powder – Barley Grass – Basil – Bee pollen – Borage blossoms – Bottlebrush – Cayenne Pepper – Chickweed – Chili Flakes – Cinnamon – Coriander/cilantro – Dandelion Leaf – Dill Weed – Fennel – Flaxseed – Garlic powder – Ginger Powder – Lemon balm – Milk Thistle Seeds – Oregano – Paprika – Red Clover Blossoms – Red Raspberry Leaf – Rose Hips – Rosemary – Sage – Thyme – Turmeric Root – Wheat grass.

Some of us have access to fancy-schmancy grocery stores where any of the aforementioned herbs and spices can be purchased. Some of us do not. Some of us choose to “grow our own” which is where Nora delivers some outstanding ideas on growing your own herb garden for your birds.

“Hey Mitch, you’re teasing us, it’s after Labor Day, we’re going in the fall – who the heck gardens in the fall? To that I say “talk to the folks at http://www.harvesttotable.com/ and they will tell you herbs well suited for growing in cool weather are cilantro, chervil, chives, dill, and parsley. Unlike warm-weather summer-grown herbs, cool-weather herbs can be sown directly in the garden a month or more before the last frost in spring for late spring harvest and again in late summer for fall harvest.

Cool-season herbs grow best in soil rich in aged compost. Compost-rich soil retains moisture, is well-drained, and contains the important nutrients necessary for cool-season herbs to thrive. (Many warm-weather herbs such as rosemary are native to the Mediterranean and will grow well in less-fertile conditions.) read more here

Better yet according to Nora – In some areas, like her home in Central Florida, parrot gardens can be grown outdoors all, or on a cold year, nearly all year round. In fact, she spent part of Labor Day planting late season sunflowers as a new experiment and lots of outdoor bird seeds as well as all types of herbs in outdoor containers, ones she can move inside or cover if we get a weird winter and can’t wear shorts all but a few days this year.

Here are Nora’s words:

Yes, we really do wear shorts in winter here frequently or layer so we start in t-shirts and end up in tank tops. We own tons of “slaps”, i.e. flip-flops and two or three pair of closed shoes unless our jobs require other dress. Honestly, the one pair of boots I own is solely in case I’m invited to ride a motorcycle with a friend rather than protection from cold, ice or snow — and I’m female, known to be a shoe hog! But I live in a sub-tropical climate here. The only warmer zone in the lower 48 US is Miami and south of there, which is fully tropical. While Mitch is unpacking his winter coats for cleaning and prep’ing for fall, I’m still planting outdoors and expect to see nothing cooler than 55 degrees at the lowest before January, if then. But back to gardening again.

Not having a place to plant outdoors or living in a cold climate should not stop you from providing fresh healthy garden treats for your birds. Just plant your garden indoors in containers. It also makes sense to combine indoor and outdoor gardens at various times of year, depending on the local climate, space and convenience. Bird seed germinate quickly and grow fast, so many areas in the moderate states can get in a short outdoor garden still this season.

In the wild, parrots forage for freshly developed seed heads and these make up a large component of their diets. In Australia, budgies fly in huge flocks and alight on grain fields, wreaking havoc on the crop in a matter of minutes as they devour the fresh seeds. Unfortunately, farmers shoot the birds because they are a nuisance and costly to their crop harvests.


“huge” understates the size of this budgie flock

An aside: Budgerigars, the name for the common parakeet we know today, hail originally from Australia. While Wikipedia says the origin of the name is unclear, I read somewhere years ago that it comes from an Aborigines word that loosely translates to ‘pretty good eating’. Of course, about that time I also read that birds don’t have saliva, and we know better today. So, don’t take me to court if this is wrong based on today’s facts. But, lets get back to gardening.

The seeds contained in bird seed mix are mature and dried. To the birds eating these seed, the experience can be compared to when you cook canned or dried beans. Providing greens from seed-bearing plants and fresh seed heads can be compared to when you purchase fresh beans at the grocery and prepare those instead of the preserved variety. Which is going to taste better and provide the most nutrition? The answer, of course, is you would choose the freshest, closest to the original natural plant when that choice is available to you. The same concept is true of your parrots.

It isn’t practical to grow your the entire diet for your parrot. It is very possible, however, to provide these fresh treats frequently. Anyone can spare the space for a window box or large plant container or two.

If you have a small space outside in your yard, in your area’s growing season you can prepare soil for an outdoor plot of whatever size you feel you want. Amend the soil with some potting soil or compost if your soil is poor. If you feed a seed-based diet, your seed stock can be as simply as shaking cracked seed hulls out of your bird’s dish (that’s how I accidentally grew my first bird garden, just dumping seed and bottom trays outside for the wild birds to pick at more closely), removing any kibble in the mix and sprinkling the remaining uneaten seed over the prepared plot. If you serve pellets, it is easy enough to pick up a small bag of seed at the local pet shop. You’ll probably only want a quarter-pound of seed to begin your gardening efforts. Select the kind with no kibble/pellets if available, saves a lot of sorting time.


Seed the plot thickly and as plants appear, you can pluck and thin, saving the removed seedlings, roots and all. Wash off any excess dirt and serve it up to your parrots. They’ll have fun nibbling and playing with the thinned out shoots. Continue to thin and add more seeds periodically so the garden continually produces every stage of plant.

When you see plants bloom, wait for the seed heads to develop. Millet, wheat, and other seed heads should be allowed to develop seeds in the seed shell until the seed feels full. Once mature, it is ready to bring in and serve in small quantities every few days. You can continue doing this until the seed heads dry out at the end of their growing cycle or until you run out of available crop. If the seed heads dry out, just harvest them all before they drop their seed and feed them to your birds over a period of days. They’ll keep for several weeks just fine in a brown paper bag.

To grow your garden indoors, simply purchase some containers or repurpose items like inexpensive storage containers that have lost their lids to the black hole every kitchen seems to have that sucks in lids and other objects that are never found again. Poke a few drainage holes in the bottom of a repurposed container and place your containers on something to protect your floor or counter top or on planter saucers. Add sterile potting soil that has no additives such as fertilizer or moisture control. You want just plain clean dirt so that any dirt your bird might get into is clean and safe. Plant bird seed about one-fourth inch deep in the pot and add water. Provide bright light, water when the soil dries out and wait for plants to appear.

It’s nice to have several indoor pots going at any given time in various stages of development. I love misting a low tray of parakeet seed that has reached an inch or two in height and placing it where my budgie and conure can play in it. Many budgies love to bathe this way, twisting and turning in the wet shoots before devouring their fill. I have to secure the container or my conure will grow tired of it and decide to dump it over the edge of the cage or inside the cage, depending on where it was placed. I think it is his game of “watch mom clean up my big mess”. Try to remove the plants as soon as your birds stop eating and playing in them so they can continue to grow and the birds can have other fun sessions with the same plants.

Indoor gardens are not as likely to develop seed heads as those grown outside but you may get a few seed heads. Even if none appear, that doesn’t stop the fun and nutrition your birds get from the bird garden and if you are lucky enough to get some seed heads to develop, then your green thumb really shows.

During the outdoor growing season, sunflowers are very popular plants to include in a bird garden. Because the local birds (and your family) will want a share, be sure to plant plenty of these easy to grow beautiful plants that provide such gorgeous huge seed heads. You’ll be able to provide healthy snacks for the family as well as the birds once the seeds mature. Humans like the seed lightly roasted but parrots want only raw seed. The two best varieties to plant are Mammoth and Black Oil varieties. You can purchase seed packages of these favorites in most any local store each spring or grab them from the bird seed mix.


If you live in an agricultural area, you might be lucky enough to locate someone who farms wheat. If you can get permission to cut a few stalks with developed seed heads while they are still green and even as they turn golden and become ready for harvest, your birds will find these a very special treat. Unless you obtain the wheat from a certified organic garden, be sure to wash the seed heads very, very well to remove any pesticide that may have been used. Let any you store for future serving dry completely before sealing in any container or baggie to prevent mold. Serve a few stalks three or four times per week and every size parrot will go for the wheat treat. Other regions may have safflower farms or other types of grain found in bird seed. Basically any grain crop provides a chance to let your birds try foods closer to the state they would enjoy in nature. Your parrots will enjoy the foraging experience as well as the nutrition.

2 budgies converting to harrisons pellet bird food using birdie bread

if the internet convinced you that pellets

are the way to go with your budgies – read this

Have fun growing bird gardens and watch your birds have fun tearing them apart and relishing tidbits of the fresh plants and seed heads. It is very little trouble to do and pays a big reward in nutrition and entertainment value.

written by nora caterino

approved by mitch rezman



Silence Your Screaming Parrot with this Quick Tip

We just wanted to say hi, I’m David Jones and this is my 10 month old “Blue Headed Pionus” we believe to be a male at this time. His name is “The Shriek of Araby”, but the vote is still out…!! He is sweet and naughty at the same time. Any tips on what to do when they shriek?


Thanks David


Blue-headed Pionus Photograph by Noah Elhardt

“The Shriek of Araby”

Hi David,


Yes birds will shriek because birds will be birds. One of the things you can try something is called a “redirection”, have a big pot and a wooden cooking spoon in a place that you get to easily that is out of sight of the bird.


Keep in mind you have to let the bird shriek 10 or 20 minutes a day to let it out of its system but if it’s incessant what you can do is when they begin to shriek, go into the other room and bang the pot – Bam – Bam – Bam.


man with pot on head and wooden spoon in hand


We recommend removing the pot from your head prior to doing this although it might feel better than listening to 3 hours of a shrieking parrot.


The bird will be silenced out of pure curiosity but just for a moment. In that moment you want to come into the room that the bird is in with a high-value treat — sunflower, raisin whatever they like best — and offer it to the bird, speaking a high pitched voice with lots of positive praise for being silent.


Let us know how it works for you


By the way, it’s important not to assume it’s common knowledge that knowing yelling “shut up” at a noisy bird is counterproductive. Visiting friends, family members and in-house sitters easily fall for the trap. Parrots are social animals. Noise is good – everybody is squawking at each other. Thus when you yell “shut up” or “be quiet” at an animal that has not assimilated Merriam-Webster, well let me translate for you in bird speak “Thank you for talking loudly with me, I really miss talking loudly with my flock mates but you’ll do for now – squawk – squawk – squawk – squawk!”


And added comment from Nora: Parrots are all drama kings/queens and shouting is one of the dramatic reactions can they force out of us frustrated humans that they simply love. Don’t give them the drama they crave or you really, as Mitch says above, just reinforce the screaming.




Q. My parrots love eating any kind of fruit or juice, nuts or seeds, but aren’t interested in any other kind of food I think is good for them. How can I change this?


The problem is its not a balanced diet if they’re not getting enough protein. I would advocate introducing a product like LeFeber’s Avi- cakes. They are mistaken as a treat but offer 100% nutrition to your bird because they contain a high percentage of pellets. The pellets are wrapped with seeds and nuts and fruit held together with molasses.


white cockatiel eating large steak bone

Our cockatiel Popcorn doesn’t have that picky eater problem

all meat was cut away so bird gets no human saliva

In addition to the Higgins seed blend that our cockatiel Popcorn feeds on regularly she goes through a package of Avicakes about every two weeks. Because of molting and reproductive activity as well as the stress of changing daylight we use a saltshaker to sprinkle a mixture of avian vitamins and a calcium supplement on top of the Avicakes. The light dusting sticks to them because of the molasses thus providing her with all of the nutrition she needs as confirmed by our avian vet who sees her about every three months.




More info here: Help Me! My Parrot Wont™t Eat Anything Except Seeds or Pellets


recent review received on our Double Java Wood Tree Parrot Play Stand


This is a quality item, NO doubt. It’s gorgeous. However there’s no size (medium, large) given for this item (there is on their others), and now that I received it let me assure you it’s LARGE sized. (small-med-large helps indicate branch width/parrot size.) This double tree would be appropriate for palm cockatoos! My Amazons will not be able to use it, unless I doctor it heavily. I simply wanted two trees instead of one. Should have gone with single tree medium, then at least I’d know what I was getting.



See All Our Java Wood Stands


public service announcement: If we see a one star review with words like “my bird wasn’t interested” it doesn’t get posted – details to follow. Every review gets scrutinized. Reviews are one of the best forms of feedback we receive.


Hi Lisa

we just posted your review (paragraph above) on the double java and completely understand your frustration. I’m simply writing to advocate not to doctor it up too severely as it will be much healthier especially for the birds feet to adapt to the tree rather than trying to adapt the tree for the birds – imho


the two images in this blog post Does the plethora of parrot perches produce puzzlement? Learn perches & placement now! speaks volumes about our birds ability to adapt



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Hi, MitchR – well, wow, thanks so much sending this! Right on time. I’ll be reading it several times, and try and work out some good strategies for their cage, their room in general, AND the stand! I’ve had them for 20-25 years, they’re 25 and 30, and we probably have some ruts to break out of. And I just had a new center dowel of the exact same size replaced in their cage, LOL.


One has a [‘snapped ACL’ for birds], but he can grip well with it. He also has a bum wing from being wild caught as a baby (he’s adopted, saw it in an X-ray). So he’s not the most confident with new things – but he’s a green monkey just the same.


I’m excited to try and change up their world a bit… but a single new rope toy last week sent us flying into walls and screaming, so we’re gonna take it niiice and sloooow. 🙂 cheers! Lisa


Sent from my iPad

got it – thinking out of the box –



so install a flat ladder across some branches to offer more horizontal support?


feel free to reach out we’ve worked with several one winged and one footed birds. oh and try to play with your bird’s toys before offering them to your birds. They always want what you have.


best of luck

written by mitch rezman

approved by catherine tobsing


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